Gloucester Cathedral

The sight on today's agenda was Gloucester Cathedral, our first real sight in town, despite being here for days and days.  We'd walked past it several times and even inadvertently heard bell-ringing practice on Tuesday.  It is apparently one of the oldest churches in England and officially built in the year 1087 by the Normans, although before that there was a monastery and before that a convent, dating to something like 697.  It looks spectacular from the outside and is no less impressive on the inside.  Meredith and I joined a free tour of the Crypts, which was mostly a fascinating talk about the building of the place and changes to the structure and in the style, as well as a bit about the monks and the time periods.  We also dished out for a tour of the tower, which included the belfry.  It was really interesting to gain a little insight into the complexities and methods of bell-ringing.  Apparently the bell-ringers (I'm sure there's a more accurate term) ring different sequences of the bells - more a mathematical exercise in all the combinations rather than tunes or melodies.  Amazing views from the top of the town (of course), although it was incredibly windy.

We left to find some Christina-friendly carbohydrates (not a very successful search) but returned for Evensong at the Cathedral.  I feel it not possible to describe the beauty of the choir songs reverberating through that place.  Even the notes of a single voice, or perhaps especially the notes of a single voice are sweet to the ears like pure honey is to the taste. 

I find it a strange exercise to sit through these services.  Of course, they are not what I'm used to.  They are so rooted in an accumulation of history and ritual.  I find myself bothered by all the practices that seem arbitrary or purely tradition.  As the churches are ornate and full of history, so seems the service to me.  I am unfamiliar with their extra flourishes.  However, I'm also aware that I may just lack the cultural language to interpret.
 
Our time in the Cotswolds has been a relaxing balance to the previous exhaustion of London.  I find myself surprised to say that the driving in the countryside was among my most favorite bits (maybe just not the harrowing single track roads or the nasty large roundabouts)!  Tomorrow we're off to our last location, Exeter.  We're hoping for a day walking on the moors and a day on the beach.  After all, we can't come to a giant island and not spend some time on the coast, right?